Almaviva was once again present at Vinexpo Hong Kong, where a masterclass of several harvests was held. The event was highlighted by the specialized magazine Cru, with an article that we review below.

The gentlemanly winemaker

French head winemaker Michel Friou has settled in Chile for more than 20 years. He had been working in several acclaimed wineries in France, Australia and Chile before Michel was appointed as the Head Winemaker of Almaviva in 2007. Meeting him for the first time in the Almaviva winery, located in Puente Alto, three years ago, he exhibited very different characters and personality comparing to other Chilean winemakers I know. Michel was mild-mannered, detail-oriented with endless patience. He showed me around the vineyards, cellars, explaining every detail which makes Almaviva unique. During the tasting, he continued to explain how the soil profiles of the vineyard were analyzed in order to provide the vines with optimal irrigation. Almaviva also pioneered the installation of an underground drip system which greatly improved the irrigation of each vine. All the detailed planning for every vineyard management aspect contributes to the exceptional terroir of Puente Alto. Michel explained, “attention to every detail of the viticulture and vinification practices for one wine is crucial, as we only have one chance each year to make a great wine.” The winemaking philosophy of Almaviva is to make “a timeless wine that could display charm and character during its youth, as well as exceptional ageing potential for 20 years or more”. They never stop learning and innovating in order to archive this goal for perfection.

Almaviva 2015

The latest release of Almaviva 2015 is the twentieth vintage since 1996. The first impression of Almaviva has always been approachable with extraordinary length even at its youth. Michel mentioned, “we hope people could enjoy the wine when they are released and not having to wait for another 10, 20 years. And the terroir at Almaviva fulfilled our goal, we just need to wait patiently for the results that mother nature provide for us.” A truly humble thing to say. During the tasting we also realized the blend of each year varies because of climatic differences. One of the most critical jobs of Michel’s is to decide the blend for each vintage. The ultimate goal is to express the unique terroir of Puente Alto and create a wine in the spirit of Bordeaux. Besides popular varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot is often added for complexity with an unique spicy character. 2015 is a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% of Carménère, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. With 100-point score by James Suckling, it is an extraordinary red wine claret with opulence and elegance. Enchanting, rich fruity aroma of blackcurrant, blackberry, with a touch of tobacco, spices and dark chocolate notes. On the palate it is juicy, fruity with layered sweet spices, well integrated oak. Firm mature tannins supported by elegant and balanced acidity, it echoes some of the finest Bordeaux claret, which could age for 20 to 30 years or more to develop the allures of mature claret.

20 Years of Advancement

Although Almaviva is still a young winery, the historic Puente Alto vineyard has been regarded as the best terroir in Maipo Valley for a long time. The vertical masterclass hosted by Michel featured ten outstanding vintages from the past 20 years, 1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012, 2014 and the latest available vintage, 2015. It was a rare chance to explore how Almaviva has evolved in the past 20 years. 1996 has developed into the style of a mature claret after 20 years of cellaring, elegant soft tannins, various spices, it is complex and lively with refined acidity. 2007 was the first vintage managed by Michel and was a memorable vintage. Harvest started from mid-April and ended in late May. The grapes enjoyed lengthy ripening on vines and this exceptional vintage was born. Now it shows great ripe tannins, cedar, tobacco and a touch of minty aroma with luscious black fruit and refreshing acidity. Challenging to tell that it was a 10-year-old wine when tasted blind. 2012 was at its first peak, juicy, complex and balanced, it showed layered aroma of fruit, spices and oak, perfectly harmonious with lengthy, velvety finish. It evolved continuously in the glass brining forward layered complexity. The masterclass was a rare opportunity to experience a comprehensive tasting of Almaviva and a truly wonderful way to appreciate the evolution of a wine so refined.

Jointly created by Viña Concha y Toro of Chile and Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux, Almaviva has exceeded the perception of Chilean wine with outstanding quality. The idea of “One Château, One Wine” has not changed since its conception. Furthermore, the winery created a precedent for the classification of Primer Orden, which is the only Premiere Grand Cru Classé equivalent among Chilean wines. For wine lovers and sommeliers, the recent vintages are comparable to other top Bordeaux blends from different countries and regions. It is a combination of the elegance of old world wine as well as the opulence of new world wine. On top of its refined quality and style, Almaviva has achieved impressive ageing potential which is enjoyable for the next 10, 20 years or more! A legendary Chilean wine that is truly one of the great wines of the world!

almavivawinery.com